Roses, an iconic fishing port on the Costa Brava, is a paradise for food lovers. Between centuries-old Catalan tradition, seafood landed fresh every morning, and the gastronomic heritage left by the legendary El Bulli restaurant, the town offers an exceptional culinary experience. If you're wondering what to eat in Roses during your stay, this comprehensive guide takes you on a discovery of essential Catalan specialities, excellent eateries handpicked throughout the seasons, and local produce you won't want to miss.
Must-try Catalan specialities in Roses
Catalan cuisine is one of the richest in Spain. In Roses, it draws sustenance from both the nearby Mediterranean and the Empordà hinterland, a land of vineyards, market gardening, and livestock. Here are the dishes you absolutely must try at least once during your holiday.
The Prawns of Roses, the red jewel of the port
If only one specialty had to represent the city, it would be this one. The prawns of Roses These are red Mediterranean prawns fished just off the bay, renowned throughout Spain for their sweet, firm, and iodine-rich flesh. The great Iberian chefs consider them one of the country's finest seafood products. So much so that they have obtained a regional quality mark that guarantees their origin and the freshness of their daily catch.
Served simply on the griddle with a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of fleur de sel, they are sublime. Avoid sauces that mask their flavour: a true connoisseur eats them with their fingers, sucking the head where all the fragrance is concentrated. Count between 80 and 150 euros per kilo in good establishments, depending on the size and season. It's a pleasure, not a commonplace thing.
The great dishes of the sea
Besides king prawns, seafood cuisine in Roses offers several great classics that you'll find on most menus:
The Fish stew is a Catalan fish stew, simmered with potatoes, garlic, tomatoes, almonds and picada (a thick mixture of almonds, garlic and parsley). It is the quintessential fisherman's dish, generous and fragrant.
The Fideuà It resembles paella but uses fine vermicelli instead of rice. Originating from the neighbouring Catalan coast, it is served with aioli and seafood (prawns, calamari, mussels, clams). Many prefer it to classic paella for its crispy texture.
The’Black rice This is black rice cooked in squid ink, accompanied by squid and seafood. Visually spectacular and flavourful, it's a Mediterranean must-have.
The Valencian paella You Seafood paella is everywhere, but prefer the home-cooked versions over the industrial paellas served in the most touristy areas. A good paella is ordered for a minimum of two people and requires at least 30 minutes of preparation time.
The flavours of Catalan land
Catalan cuisine isn't just about the sea. The inland regions offer their own robust and flavourful specialities, some of which have become iconic.
The’escalivada It is a mixture of red peppers, aubergines and onions flame-grilled, peeled and served warm with olive oil and salt. Simple, smoky, addictive, it is the perfect starter to share.
The Bread with tomato It's more than a dish, it's a Catalan religion. A slice of bread rubbed with a ripe tomato, a drizzle of olive oil, a pinch of salt. It's served with almost anything: ham, cheese, anchovies, omelette. If you want to blend in, start every meal with a pa amb tomàquet.
The butifarra is a Catalan sausage, generally grilled and served with white beans (mongetes). A hearty and popular dish, perfect after a day of swimming.
The spring onions, in the winter season (January to March), are sweet long onions grilled over a wood fire, dipped in romesco sauce. If you visit outside the summer season, don't miss a real calçotada, it's an experience.
Catalan sweet treats
Catalan gastronomy also shines when it comes to dessert.
The Crème brûlée is the ancestor of French crème brûlée: cream flavoured with cinnamon and lemon zest, covered with a thin layer of caramelised sugar. Not to be confused with its French cousin, the Catalan version is more flavourful and less rich.
The Xuixo (pronounced «shoo-shoo») is a typical pastry from Girona: fried puff pastry, filled with crème pâtissière, sprinkled with sugar. A guilty pleasure to enjoy at breakfast with strong coffee.
The Panellets are small almond bites covered in pine nuts, traditionally prepared for All Saints' Day but found all year round in good bakeries.
The Catalans You Doughnuts remind one of doughnuts, flavoured with anise or lemon, to nibble at the end of a meal with a coffee.
Where to Eat in Roses: Our Top Picks
With its dozens of restaurants concentrated on the seafront and around the harbour, Roses offers every atmosphere and every budget. Here's how to find your way around, depending on what you're looking for.
Exception tables and El Bulli's legacy
For decades, Roses was the world capital of haute cuisine thanks to the legendary restaurant El Bulli by Ferran Adrià, which closed its doors in 2011 after being voted the best restaurant in the world on multiple occasions. The establishment no longer welcomes diners today, but its gastronomic aura remains in the region: several former El Bulli chefs have dispersed throughout the area, and creative Catalan cuisine is particularly vibrant there.
If you want to extend the El Bulli experience, the’El Bulli Foundation, now transformed into a gastronomic museum, is worth visiting (we dedicate a separate article to it on this site).
For fine dining, several Michelin-starred or bistronomic restaurants can be found in Roses or the nearby villages. The Michelin and Repsol guides remain the best sources for identifying current favourites.
The harbour and the beachfront chiringuitos
For seafood in the most authentic setting, the Restaurants at Roses harbour are unmissable. You will eat prawns caught that very morning, simply grilled fish, and generous seafood platters. The atmosphere is lively and familial, with a view of the colourful boats bobbing gently.
The Beach bars (These typical seaside establishments) offer a different experience: you eat in your swimsuit, your feet almost in the sand, with a simple but fresh menu. Ideal for a no-frills lunch between dips in the sea.
Tapas and traditional cuisine
Pour discovering cheap Catalan popular cuisine, nothing beats a Tapas tour in the narrow streets of the city centre and around the parish church. Here you can share plates of pa amb tomàquet, Iberian ham, homemade croquettes, Spanish omelette, and small fried fish.
Catalans never have dinner before 9pm, but you can have tapas as an aperitif from 7pm in most bars in the centre. Expect to pay between 3 and 6 euros per tapa depending on what you order.
Lunch with your feet in the water
For a romantic lunch or a family meal as close to the Mediterranean as possible, Roses is brimming with coves with restaurants. Our Article on the beaches of Roses (Internal link) details several, including a secret cove with a restaurant hidden among the pines that is really worth a visit.
For precise and up-to-date addresses, we refer you to the official tourism office website. Visit Roses who maintains an up-to-date list of open establishments.
Local markets and products to bring back
Beyond restaurants, the gastronomy of Roses can also be experienced in the markets and local produce shops. It's a chance to bring Catalan flavours back home with you.
The market of Roses
The weekly market It is held on Sunday mornings in Plaça de Catalunya, right in the city centre. There you will find seasonal fruits and vegetables, Catalan cheeses, artisanal cured meats, flowers, and a few stalls selling non-food items. Authentic atmosphere, fair prices, ideal for preparing a Catalan meal at your holiday home.
The fish market Near the port, it is open every day of the week. The best catches come in late morning when the boats return: prawns, anchovies from L'Escala, sardines, rockfish. Buy early if you want the best of the catch.
Gourmet souvenirs to tuck into your suitcase
A few products from Roses and Empordà would certainly deserve a prime spot in your luggage for the return journey:
The’Olive oil from Empordà, Fruity and golden, it is one of the best in Catalonia. Prefer producers with DOP (denominació d’origen protegida) mention.
The Anchovies from L'Escala, a neighbouring village, are a Catalan institution. Salted by hand, they accompany a pa amb tomàquet or an aperitif like no other.
The fuet It is a Catalan cured sausage, milder than chorizo, perfect for snacking as an aperitif.
The Wines DO Empordà (see next section) are best purchased directly from producers if you have a car.
The ratafia, a traditional liqueur made with 100 herbs, is an interesting gift.
The Catalan cheeses like the Garrotxa (goat) or the Artisan cheeses premises complete the range.
Catalan wines and drinks to discover
Spain is not just Rioja. Catalonia has its own wine-growing regions, several of which are worth exploring without (reasonable) moderation.
The’Empordà DO is the closest vineyard to Roses, just a few kilometres inland. They produce powerful reds based on Garnacha and Carignan, fresh whites based on Garnacha Blanca and Macabeu, and sweet wines based on Muscat (the Moscatell, perfect as an aperitif).
The Cava is a Spanish sparkling wine, mainly produced in Catalonia in the Penedès region. It is wonderful as an aperitif or with seafood. For elegance, opt for Brut Nature vintages.
The vermouth It is a very popular Catalan aperitif, to be drunk on a Sunday lunchtime with some tapas. Tradition dictates that one orders «fer un vermut» with friends before the meal.
The ratafia It is a typical herbal liqueur from Catalonia, to be tasted as a digestif.
Practical tips for eating well in Roses
Some local codes to know to make the most of Catalan gastronomy without making any faux pas.
Meal times in Spain are shifted compared to France. Lunch is taken between 1.30 pm and 3.30 pm (restaurants often close their kitchens at 4.00 pm to reopen in the evening). Dinner is taken between 9.00 pm and 11.00 pm. If you arrive at 7.00 pm for dinner, you will find the doors closed.
The nap is a reality in some businesses: between 2:00 PM and 5:00 PM, many shops close. Supermarkets and chains remain open, but small traditional shops still observe this break.
The booking It is recommended for Friday evening, Saturday evening and Sunday lunchtime during the high season. For good restaurants and popular beach bars, book 2 to 3 days in advance in July and August.
The tip Tipping isn’t compulsory in Spain, but it’s appreciated. Leaving 5 to 10% is a polite gesture for good service. At the counter of a tapas bar, rounding up is sufficient.
The map in French It's available in almost all restaurants in Roses. French patronage is so strong that it has become standard. But trying a few words in Catalan or Spanish is always a pleasure for the waiters.
FAQ - What to eat in Roses
What are the absolute must-try Catalan dishes in Roses?
The prawns from Roses (a must-try, they are the local speciality), a fish stew (suquet de peix) or a fideuà for seafood lovers, and escalivada with pa amb tomàquet to start. For dessert, crema catalana is a classic.
Les gambas de Roses sont célèbres pour leur taille, leur saveur sucrée et leur texture tendre. Elles sont spécifiquement réputées pour avoir un goût unique grâce à l'eau froide et aux nutriments des eaux de la baie de Roses.
The Gambas de Roses are red Mediterranean prawns caught in the bay. They are renowned for their sweet, firm, and iodine-rich flesh, considered by top chefs to be one of Spain's finest seafood products. A regional quality mark guarantees their origin.
What is the best market to buy local produce in Roses?
The Sunday morning weekly market on Plaça de Catalunya for fruit, vegetables, cheeses and cured meats. The fish market at the port for freshly landed seafood.
What time do people eat in Spain?
Lunch is served between 1:30 pm and 3:30 pm, and dinner between 9:00 pm and 11:00 pm. Restaurants often close their kitchens in the mid-afternoon to reopen in the evening.
Is El Bulli still open in Roses?
No. Ferran Adrià's restaurant El Bulli, which was voted the best restaurant in the world several times, definitively closed its doors in 2011. The venue has today been transformed into a gastronomic museum, the’El Bulli Foundation, which you can visit.
Roses, a gourmet destination in its own right
Whether you're a fan of briny seafood, traditional Catalan cuisine, or oenological discoveries, Roses has everything you need to turn your holiday into a gastronomic adventure. Between the prawns from the harbour, golden paellas, Empordà wines and Catalan sweets, every meal becomes an invitation to travel.
To fully enjoy this exceptional cuisine, nothing beats a rental stay in the heart of the bay. Our apartments with sea view in Canyelles Petites (internal property sheet link) are ideally located for quickly reaching the harbour, town centre or restaurant coves in just a few minutes. Enjoy your meal, or as they say here: Enjoy your profits!